FAIRMOUNT ALPINE BY Alimurimeta

Hi, I post some pictures of my current site: fairmount alpine kits billing boats. I decided to proceed with a kit and not in self-construction as the model will be sold to a dear friend, and given the time constraints, I opted for the kit. I purchased the kit from the dealer for Italy of billing boats: PB MODELS. After almost 10 years of absence, the B.B. has resumed sales in Italy.

Open the box, I immediately realized the good degree of processing and laser cutting. The offset are birch and lime, in thicknesses ranging from 5 to 1 mm.





After a quick but careful reading of the installation instructions, I started to remove the first pieces forming the keel and the frames of the model.



I glued together the three pieces constituting the keel, held under pressure between two sheets of glass, to ensure the perfect flatness of the parties.



I prepared the building slip assembly to hold in place keel and, using a piece of MDF and beech slats square 10x10 mm




All for now, soon other stages of assembly, greetings ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi, I pass another block photo shipyard fairmount

I have completed the assembly of the "skeleton" of the model.





https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAACk/sKGW7MzOSC0/s512/Web%20DSCN7407.jpg

The instructions expect to shape the piece 222 to get a section in the middle round. To do this, I marked with a pencil centerlines of the various sections and the edges and corners




So with rasp, files and sandpaper I rounded the edges to the center line



The next step provides the bandage of the hull with shaped sheets of plywood and a few strips

Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi, another block photo. There impressed by the speed with which I am entering the steps of construction, I started the site last month and I have some photos of the early stages of construction.

The kit instructions provide for the assembly of the safety partitions located on the deck at the stern work. The bulkheads are made up of two pieces 107 and the uprights with one foot in T. The problem is that once glued permanently, becomes problematic and should be filled paint them. Therefore I made my change mounting.
I nicked the foundations of piers with a knife chisel



Then I entered the uprights in the pre-cut holes in the deck and bulkheads bonded to these, but did not stick with the bridge





After drying glue, I removed with tweezers blocks of the uprights




I extracted from the holes in the walls of the bridge, I can finish and paint separately in accordance with the instructions



Ciao, ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello everyone

I glued the bands that make up the bow, made with birch plywood 1 mm. I must say a good idea by billing boats, even if the fold is not just a health walk







Finished applying the bands plywood, left for me to glue the strips in the empty spaces, in the bow and stern





Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello everyone

A few more photos of the phases of application of the strips in the stern







I shaped the stern using balsa blocks provided in the kit





Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi everyone
After finishing battens, I marked with a pen tube circumference of the bow truster and I polished the strips with a grinding wheel





Then I glued the pieces of wood that form the concavity for the flow of push and I've inserted the tube

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With the usual grinder, mini drill I polished the wooden steps to obtain a continuous surface and well trimmed



Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Nice kit, it's on my list as well. Going to follow this again.

 

HELLO Onrust, even your modelslipway's AZIZ is at the top of my wishing list. In general I prefer to build my models by my self, but the English kits are made very well and full of details and accessories of good quality.
I will follow you for the AZIZ
See you soon , ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi, another block photo.
I applied the bulkheads that close the stern of fairmount. I bent with the jar and candle
I used to hold them in place of the adjustable clamps







After the glue has pulled for good, I have applied the rods that form the handrails of bulwarks. To give it the right shape, I kept them in water overnight and I have warmed with the jar and candle






Ciao, ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello everyone,
After the bandage hull and stern, I started the stage (for me very boring) the trimming and sanding the hull. Fortunately slatted surfaces are slim, and my equipment helps save "elbow grease".







After a fine dusting, I gave a coat of wood putty to the entire hull





Now I expect the most boring step: sanding the filler, with so much dust :lol:

Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi, I show you the steps of sanding and resin hull. Although the model is static, however I preferred to give a coat of resin on the outside, having filled and smoothed respectable, to provide greater strength and stability to the hull.





I used epoxy type resin for impregnation of wood. Has the advantage of being less liquid than that for better rolling and infiltrates into the wood fibers. stretch out the resin in thin layers with a natural bristle brush, rinsing it with acetone after use for reuse.
Weight also growing resin and catalyst to respect the relationships dosing and I do not do this operation below 10 ° C. **







Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

So ........ I waited 24 hours before sanding the hull resin. I used emery cloth grain 220-320-400, wet, getting a decent job. Then I glued the transoms and the bulkhead which is the bulwark of the bow, keeping in shape with the piece of scotch





I started the construction of the hull side reinforcements. I made them strip Tanganyika 0.5 x 6 mm
First I drew the position of the strips, taking measurements from the general plan.
Then I glued the longitudinal lengths with super glue. I have not used the vinyl because it would not glued to the hull resin



I scored and then glued cross sections, always with super glue.



See you soon, ALIMURIMETA

 

i really enjoy your work ;-)

 

Hi all, as I said earlier, I tight deadlines for delivery of the model. Therefore I can not "wander" too much to what is proposed in the kit. But some things I HAVE to put.
Then I noticed that the fairmount scale 1: 1 presents the pieces of sheet metal used to reinforce the hull at the niches of hospitalization of the anchors (anchors that are not provided in the kit: cry.
I decided to carry them out to me. So I took a piece of veneer Tanganyika 0.6 mm and with a sheet of clear acetate and a pencil I drew the profile reinforcements (left and right)



I cut the acetate along the dotted lines and I traced the outline on the sheet of Tanganyika





Then with a sharp knife I cut the two wooden reinforcements.



I glued reinforcements to the hull and given a beautiful coat of putty spray all model



Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello Guys, in the meantime that the putty dries, I put hand to the assembly of the superstructures and deckhouses.
So instructions in hand, I unplugged from the sheets of plywood pieces needed. The precision of laser cutting has allowed me to mount very quickly and with great precision



To hold the pieces in place using the usual scotch and then paste internally with aliphatic glue applied with a brush.





The roof deck is only supported but not glued, to be able to work more comfortably fitting the bridge.





Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello everyone, I continue with the inclusion of photo
I prepared the small panels of plywood forming the walls and windows of the bridge. To ensure that the pieces fit together perfectly, I trimmed the edges of small panels with pads in sandpaper "homemade". Just have a wooden board, a double-sided and sandpaper.

Following the instruction I resco realize that there is a small error in the numbering of the panels of the dashboard. However nothing serious.







To hold the pieces together and how to use the tape for all deckhouse, glue the pieces inside with aliphatic glue and a brush "dispenser".



The instrument panel is removable from the deck below, so that you can work internally to the finish and coloring.



See you soon ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello.
So, I put the two bases of the funnels and the service platform between them





I gave it a coat of putty spray to deckhouses and other elements of the model



I started the construction of the rails. Billing uses candlesticks dishes 3 holes 14 mm in height, made in ALUMINIUM. At one time they gave in BRASS, then sealable tin. I'll use the attack and gas mask, to prevent my allergy to cyanoacrylate *:evil:





Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi, I show the stages of implementation in detail of rails that surround deckhouses and the wheelhouse of fairmount.
Then, Mr. Billing provides skeins of copper wire 0.5 mm in diameter for three courses of rails. The first step provides to straighten the wire to get fingers rectilinear
I use this method. First I stretched out the copper wire



I inserted the copper wire between two iron plates and I slid over one another. In doing so, the wire straightens well.





I supported the copper wire along the holes of candlesticks and I fixed with a bit of scotch. With tweezers I bent copper wire following the path of the holes of the candlesticks and I repeated the operation three times to get the three bars for each side rail



I then inserted the chandeliers in the three shaped wires and have them tucked into the mounting holes in the wood lasered. Then I glued the wires to the candlesticks with superglue



Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hello.
So ..... I started the construction of the antennas and the truss placed between the funnels. The structure consists of copper wire and some small pieces of wood. To achieve it I recovered the measures and forms of the rods from the general plan of construction.



Then I soldered the various elements that make up the trellis. For welding copper and brass use a soldering iron with adjustable power. So I withdraw a small amount of solder paste that I place on the bards of the pieces to be welded. With the soldering iron down a little pond by the spool of thread and support the tip of the soldering iron on the edges to be welded and that's it.





I glued between them the pieces of wood and inserted the rods of copper



Here the work almost finished



Ciao ALIMURIMETA

 

Hi, I show you the steps of realization of some brass accessories. It is handrails for stairs, support towers and frames for liferafts.

To achieve more or less all the same, I have built the templates folders, using the drawings scale 1: 1 in the instruction booklet. So I bent brass wire making it adhere to the profile of the forms







I soldered the support of the handrail and trimmed the excess wire.





See you soon ALIMURIMETA