Bouwverslag Junkers Ju-87 B2 Picchiatello ⇨ W.Nr.0353 | 236 Sq. 96 Gr. Aut. B.

Discussie in 'Vliegende schaalmodellen' gestart door ramses, 30 okt 2013.

  1. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Ramses,
    This is an old thread but hope you still check it once in a while. Also hope English is OK.....
    I am using your plan and building the plane but modifying it for an electric motor. I am doing some tests regarding the painting (new to me) and hope for some advice from you.
    If I understand well, your process was:
    - attach tissue with varnish
    - one more coat of varnish
    - one coat grey primer
    - two coats paint
    - final coat of varnish

    Is that right?

    I am trying to follow this process (but put on 2 coats of 50/50 dope / thinners first) but doesn't seem to work. I need 5 or 6 coats primer before getting a smooth surface to paint on. Any idea where I could be going wrong?

    Thanks.

    Fred.
     
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  2. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    Hi Fred,

    Welcome to this forum!
    Great to hear that someone is building the Stuka from my Outerzone plans :)
    Electric power should be no problem for the Stuka, but I can not advice you there since I'm an old school IC-powered rc-flyer ;)

    [​IMG]

    About the finishing of my Picchiatello (Stuka) in this build thread:
    • At first the tissue is attached with clear WBPU (Water Based PolyUrethane).
    • Second, when the WBPU was completely hard I`ve dry sanded the tissue lightly and applied a second coat of clear WBPU.
    • Third I applied a grey WBPU primer and when hard, dry sanded thoroughly.
    • Then I used "light-weight" filler to fill the down spots and wet sanded the Stuka overall with very fine grid sandpaper.
    • After that I`ve added the panellines, external details, etc.
    • When ready detailing, three different coats of WBPU were applied, the RLM sky, dark- and light green camouflage colors.
    • Weathering was next, dry brush and different paint techniques used.
    • Finally, the whole Stuka was given a 'two component' PU fuel resistant clear coat
    All coats applied with different width brushes, no spray painting...

    [​IMG]

    I use the 'one-component' WBPU right out of the can, no thinners (water in this case) were used.

    The clear 'one component' WBPU is designed for flooring, to give a hard, scratch resistant top coat (Glitsa)
    The colored 'one component' WBPU is a housepaint, they can make any color I ask, even scan a color chip to replicate (Karwei)
    The clear 'two component' PU top coat is designed for the automotive/industrial branch, a very hard, scratch- and chemicals resistant paint (Nelfadur).

    I`ve used this "one-, and two component" PU finish method on more of my planes before, and it`s well proven completely fuel resistant!

    [​IMG]

    Searched for a good 'total finish' method after having too much of nice finishings being ruined by paints and clear coats reacting to eachother... :(
    Found it in this WBPU total finishing method, which is also very cheap too,... just regular house paint.
    Except for the 'two-component' top coat, it`s not the cheapest around.
    Worth every penny though, when the finish of your model is still good after many years methanol/nitro spills on it, and all the exhaust fumes...
    I`ve read about this kind of finishing big scale models in a magazine, I think Model Airplane News from a few decades ago!
    Tried it myself and now it`s my favorite kind of finishing, but it`s just one of many very fine methods of finishing a scale model of course!

    [​IMG]

    Do you have a build thread of your Stuka?
    Which version of the plans are you building, original scale 1/8.3 or my design scale 1/10,5?
    Please feel free to post pictures of your Stuka in this threat! :thumbsup:

    Cheers,
    Ramses
    .
     
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  3. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Ramses,
    Thanks for your quick reply. I am indeed using your scaled plan and have to thank you for the detailed and very helpful build thread. Also congratulate you on your result, think you built a great looking plane. Hope it flies well.

    I am a beginner, this is my second scratch build plane and I am learning new skills at every step. Learning what works or not by trial and (a lot of) error. Therefore I am very slow and did not make my own build thread. Anyway I post some photos of my current status below. But don't expect any quick updates, I think it will still take me many months of slow progress before I am finished! At the moment I have mostly finished the fuselage and tail assembly. Now working on engine covers which I am redesigning from your plan to work with electric motor, ESC and a 4S 2800mah battery. So the front part of the fuselage looks a little different to the one you built.

    Thanks,

    Fred.
     

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  4. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Ramses,

    Regarding the painting, thanks also for your great explanation. I tried to follow what you did as a trial using some scrap pieces of sheet 1.5mm balsa. I put the tissue (Japanese paper) on the balsa with varnish. Waited for drying then added another layer of varnish. But the balsa warped horribly. Almost became U shaped! Seems this did not happen to you........

    I know you used WBPU but I could not seem to find it in any local baumarkt. I used Renovo 2 in 1 Treppen und Parkettlack (water based but not sure if PU or not). Could this be the problem? I tried a test again with Bondex Holzlasur fuer aussen (alkydhardz resin based). This time there was no warping but even after many coats I could still see the structure of the tissue. Any advice?

    BTW what was the lightweight filler you used?

    Thanks,

    Fred.
     
  5. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Ramses,
    You can see in the photo what I mean. I did a test with two pieces of scrap 1.5mm balsa. On the right is a piece which had 2 coats of the water based varnish. It is reasonably flat. On the left is a piece which had tissue attached with one coat of water based varnish, then after drying another coat of water based varnish. Already you can see it has a warp.

    Maybe not a varnish problem but instead a tissue problem? What kind of tissue did you use? What was the weight?

    Thanks,

    Fred.
     

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  6. Andre Swanepoel

    Andre Swanepoel

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    [QUOTE = "Ramses, post: 3152612, member: 16039"] Update

    .
    The plywood and balsa wood trusses, ribs and beams:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Construction can begin : D

    Greetings, Ramses [/ QUOTE]
    Hello if have started with this plans. Great work by the way. I am n nit unsure as to what parts are all balsa and what is plywood. If possible can you assist
     
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  7. Andre Swanepoel

    Andre Swanepoel

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    Has anyone have more recent and updated plans of this current design?
     
  8. Henri Kaper

    Henri Kaper verslagschrijvers

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    Hi Fred,
    Off course your thin test sheet is getting warped ... it's not part of a construction. I wouldn't worry about it. Shrinkage is part of the tissue's behavior, which you want to get flat and smooth surfaces.
     
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  9. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    Sure!
    But which version are you building, the 10,5 scale (ca. 1300mm) or the 1/8 (ca. 1800mm) version?
    I`ve modefied the original Royal/Marutaka plans in both scales, which can be downloaded for free from Outerzone.

    This build threat is about the 10,5 scale version.
    But I`m also building a 1/8 version, see this build threat.

    [​IMG]

    The plans are modified kit plans from the old discontinued Marutaka kit, meant for scratchbuilding.
    Hope these pictures help for the materials (balsa/lite-ply) used:

    The 10.5 scale version:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ...and the 1/8 scale version:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Have fun building yours!

    Best regards, Ramses
    .
     
    Laatst bewerkt: 14 mei 2020
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  10. Andre Swanepoel

    Andre Swanepoel

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    Thank you that helps a lot. I am building the10.5 scale. Is there any down thrust and or right thrust angle for motor mounting. I have a spare 2 stroke .46 lying around it should be more than enough power. What prop have you used on your plane and size?
     
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  11. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    I`ve build the engine on the hard-wood mounts, which have 0 degree down thrust.
    Build in the engine slightly offset to the centerline, so the engine has a side-thrust of about 1 degree.

    That must be more than ample power!
    I fly mine with an old OS FS .48 four stoke.

    Prop size I don`t know by head, I`m at my work now, will check that when I`m home tonight.

    Cheers, Ramses
    .
     
    Laatst bewerkt: 14 mei 2020
  12. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    The prop on the OS .48 FS four stroke in my Stuka (Picchiatello) is a Graupner 11x6 two blade:

    [​IMG]

    Cheers, Ramses
    .
     
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  13. Andre Swanepoel

    Andre Swanepoel

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    [QUOTE = "Ramses, post: 3152527, member: 16039"] .
    @ Wouter, Bart and Femmo: The way I did it is indeed quite cumbersome and I could indeed have temporarily pasted the paper on the wood. I have now pinned the paper on it temporarily while 'tracing'.

    @ Thieu: Many German war crates have also been used by other nationalities and can therefore also be made without swastika.

    In the meantime I have cut / cut and sanded all wooden trusses, ribs and beams and the "short-kit" is ready. Also had a fuel tank that fits exactly in the hull and the OS 48 Surpass has been cleaned and checked and ready for installation.

    Will post some photos tonight

    Greetings, Ramses [/ QUOTE]
    Morning what size and what make fuel tank did you use. I have a 8oz sullivan tank but is slightly large. And does not fit exactly.
     
  14. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    Hi Andre,

    Ik don`t know by head, will look tonight when I`m home.

    Cheers, Ramses
    .
     
  15. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    Hi Andre,

    I`ve sent you a conversation.

    Cheers, Ramses
    .
     
  16. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Henry,
    Thanks for the encouraging information. Build is going very slowly but I will proceed with the tissue method.

    Fred
     
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  17. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Ramses,

    Didn't have time to do anything for a long time on this build. Current status below. But now in lockdown. Maybe have some time to restart.....

    Fred. 20200611_152024.jpg

    20200611_152024.jpg
     
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  18. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    Hi Fred,

    Very nice work! :thumbsup:

    I would like to refer to THIS,THIS and THIS post in this build thread ;)
    This drawing is what I used for my Picchiatello:

    [​IMG]
    Cheers, Ramses
    .
     
    Laatst bewerkt: 15 nov 2020
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  19. Fred Cassidy

    Fred Cassidy

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    Hi Ramses,

    Thanks for that! Let me see if I understand your process correctly and maybe ask a few questions. Is this what you did:

    - Glued a strip of balsa to the trailing edge of the wing. (Maybe 1.5mm thick * 20mm or so wide?)

    - Positioned the ailerons / flaps over the trailing edge of the wing and made notches in the trailing edge balsa strip where the support tubes would go (From the drawing I suppose the trailing edge of the wing aligns with the leading edge of the aileron / flaps but is maybe eg 10mm below it? How did you position the ailerons / flaps accurately when you did this? Did you eg cut some kind of template in order to get repeatability for each aileron/flap?)

    - Temporarily glued the tubes into the notches with a little CA glue

    - Then added some wooden support blocks (houten zadeltjes) under the tubes and fixed the tubes permanently to them for added strength (With epoxy glue? Were these just U shaped blocks or did you completely enclose the tubes?)


    It seems from your dual Stuka thread you will do this a different way on this new build?

    Thanks!
     
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  20. ramses

    ramses Vriend van modelbouwforum.nl Forum veteraan

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    Een artikel over de bouw van deze scratchbuild Junkers Ju87-B2 Picchiatello is in uitgave 01-2022 van het KNVvL magazine "Modelvliegsport" en het magazine "Drones & Modelvliegen" geplaatst:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Groeten, Ramses
    .
     
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