bruno, welke lak dan??
Flair Puppeteer
- Topicstarter Rico van Dijk
- Startdatum
De enige methanol / nitromethaan bestendige 1 componenten lak die ik ken is G4. En die glimt, dat wil je niet weten...
Alle andere bruikbare producten zijn 2 component systemen.
Ik heb -gezien het type modellen dat ik maak- altijd hoogglans afwerking, met eiglans heb ik geen ervaring. Als ik jou was zou ik informeren bij schaalbouwers. Er zijn er gelukkig verschillende op het forum.
Alle andere bruikbare producten zijn 2 component systemen.
Ik heb -gezien het type modellen dat ik maak- altijd hoogglans afwerking, met eiglans heb ik geen ervaring. Als ik jou was zou ik informeren bij schaalbouwers. Er zijn er gelukkig verschillende op het forum.
Ceta Bever Interieurbeits "teak"0185"
instrumentje in de maak, versie. 1. uiteindelijk was versie 3 goed
haha
versie 3 is eindelijk de goede maat. en klaar om geverd te worden.
toerenteller rand is vormklaar en voor de 1e x geverfd.
Het proefstuk waar ik het eerder over gehad heb is op foto3 te zien.
de rechter kant is met acryl parketlak behandeld.
1x overspoeld met nitro/methanol brandstof en na een tijdje intrekken met water en zeep gewassen en droog gewreven.
geen verschil. maar..
een advies van bruno nooit in de wind slaan. ik ga het denk ik behandelen met praxis mat transparant lak. lijkt mij een prima onzichtbare coating. en uiteraard ga ik dat ook eerst op een proefstuk proberen ;-)
instrumenten panel maken is leuk!
maar ik ben wel echt slecht verslaafd: verjaardag feest van men vriendin is in volle gang, en ik zit dit te uploaden :lol:
Groeten!
Rico
instrumentje in de maak, versie. 1. uiteindelijk was versie 3 goed
haha
versie 3 is eindelijk de goede maat. en klaar om geverd te worden.
toerenteller rand is vormklaar en voor de 1e x geverfd.
Het proefstuk waar ik het eerder over gehad heb is op foto3 te zien.
de rechter kant is met acryl parketlak behandeld.
1x overspoeld met nitro/methanol brandstof en na een tijdje intrekken met water en zeep gewassen en droog gewreven.
geen verschil. maar..
een advies van bruno nooit in de wind slaan. ik ga het denk ik behandelen met praxis mat transparant lak. lijkt mij een prima onzichtbare coating. en uiteraard ga ik dat ook eerst op een proefstuk proberen ;-)
instrumenten panel maken is leuk!
maar ik ben wel echt slecht verslaafd: verjaardag feest van men vriendin is in volle gang, en ik zit dit te uploaden :lol:
Groeten!
Rico
jan brilman
Forum veteraan
8O
Kijk maar uit, klinkt als het begin van het einde . . . :?
:wink:
jan.
D
Delcam
Guest
Kijk voor goede twee componenten lak eens op http://www.baronpaints.co.uk/index.htm
Deze zaak zit in Engeland en dat betekent dat je geen btw of importbelasting hoeft te betalen.
Hans Delemarre
Deze zaak zit in Engeland en dat betekent dat je geen btw of importbelasting hoeft te betalen.
Hans Delemarre
Voor aankopen in het buitenland maar binnen de EU betaal je gewoon de BTW van het land waar je de spullen koopt. In dit geval dus Engeland. Invoerrechten of andere kosten komen daar niet meer bij omdat er een vrij verkeer van goederen binnen de EU geldt. Nu is dat "vrije verkeer" erg betrekkelijk want er zijn wel degelijk limieten en regels waaraan voldaan moet worden. Dit geldt bijvoorbeeld voor rookwaren en alcohol houdende dranken.
Voor zover ik weet gelden er geen limieten voor modelbouw spullen.
Voor zover ik weet gelden er geen limieten voor modelbouw spullen.
V
vincento
Guest
Rico,
Sorry I can't do the native language but I am building a Pup with Saito 56 and have been following this thread with much interest.
My servo positions are very similar to yours and I was wondering how well you achieved the correct centre of gravity without adding any weights?
Also:
where did you end up putting the receiver batteries?
for how long did you run [break]your Saito in for?
what fuel did you use for the run in period?
you have added some additional vertical and horizontal ribs to the fuse' sides. Is this because you are covering this part with fabric rather than sheeting it with balsa?
Cheers
Vincent
Sorry I can't do the native language but I am building a Pup with Saito 56 and have been following this thread with much interest.
My servo positions are very similar to yours and I was wondering how well you achieved the correct centre of gravity without adding any weights?
Also:
where did you end up putting the receiver batteries?
for how long did you run [break]your Saito in for?
what fuel did you use for the run in period?
you have added some additional vertical and horizontal ribs to the fuse' sides. Is this because you are covering this part with fabric rather than sheeting it with balsa?
Cheers
Vincent
At the moment I am not 100% sertain about the CG, but I have some playing room with the batterypack and maybe a start (glow) battery.vincento zei:
Also the saito .56 is a heavy engine, so the CG is less a problem than used with a 2stroke..
next to the fuel tank in a custom made box. the forward position is adjustable (for CG) with foamvincento zei:
I only had 6 run-in sessions yet. with synthetic heli-fuel. (5% nitro, ~20% oil) according to the running in scedual from http://saito-engines.info/ (a good site for all your saito questions!) the engine is now ready to preform easy flight operations, finalizing running in will be when the aircraft is ready to fly. (be carefull with new saito engines! adjust valve clearences before first run!!! I was lucky not having any compression but wrong valve clearences could have destroyed the engine!)vincento zei:
Like a sopwith pup I added ribs and spars around the fuselage. it will be finished with strips of balsa sheet normaly used for the full sheeting. I think this is a little efford for a great look in combination with ora-tex covering.vincento zei:
Currently the building of my pup is put to a pauze, becouse of my study and work. in the early spring I will continue manufacturing, to launch her hopefully before the summer holliday..
Do you have a building thread of your pup?
Regards
Rico
V
vincento
Guest
Rico, thanks for the response and the information. We may be at a similar stage in a few months if I catch up!
I don't have a thread of my build at the moment but have posted a few items on the 'thrust angle' thread within rcuniverse.com http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2581782/mpage_12/key_/tm.htm
I'll get a thread running when I'm a bit further on but it would be good to swap ideas with you as we progress.
Good luck with the studies.
Vincent
I don't have a thread of my build at the moment but have posted a few items on the 'thrust angle' thread within rcuniverse.com http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2581782/mpage_12/key_/tm.htm
I'll get a thread running when I'm a bit further on but it would be good to swap ideas with you as we progress.
Good luck with the studies.
Vincent
V
vincento
Guest
Rico / anyone ,
Would you happen to know the correct dihedral for the Puppeteer?
Unfortunately, I asked my father to build the wings [big mistake!] and the dihedral doesn't look enough to me.
Unfortunately, the dihedral braces are not pressed out of the liteply sheets so I can't refer to the 'hole' in the sheet to check the angle.
However, from the plans [part no. 67 on sheet
4 ] I am estimating that the dihedral is circa 5 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees.
Alternatively, with one wing flat, what is the height of the other wing above the surface, and at what point? I can then calculate the correct dihedral from that.
Hope you guys can help!
Vince
Would you happen to know the correct dihedral for the Puppeteer?
Unfortunately, I asked my father to build the wings [big mistake!] and the dihedral doesn't look enough to me.
Unfortunately, the dihedral braces are not pressed out of the liteply sheets so I can't refer to the 'hole' in the sheet to check the angle.
However, from the plans [part no. 67 on sheet
4 ] I am estimating that the dihedral is circa 5 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees.
Alternatively, with one wing flat, what is the height of the other wing above the surface, and at what point? I can then calculate the correct dihedral from that.
Hope you guys can help!
Vince
jan brilman
Forum veteraan
And, before it is too late, is there any decalage (decallage?) in the wings? :teacher:
The incidence of the two wings isn't the same, so that when one wing stalls, the other is still flying . . .
jan.
The incidence of the two wings isn't the same, so that when one wing stalls, the other is still flying . . .
jan.
V
vincento
Guest
Hi Jan,
I think that I will only know that when I get the upper and lower wing set up correctly - the lower on the fuselage and the upper on top of the cabane struts.
I'm not quite there yet, but I hope that the decalage angle comes out OK.
Am I right in thinking that it should be about 1 degree negative for a biplane?
I hear lots of different views on this, i.e slightly negative or slightly positive decalage.
I'm just annoyed with myself that I couldn't follow this Puppeteer building thread [because of the usual 'English disease' of not speaking a foreign language]. It looks packed with lots of interesting information.
Vince
I think that I will only know that when I get the upper and lower wing set up correctly - the lower on the fuselage and the upper on top of the cabane struts.
I'm not quite there yet, but I hope that the decalage angle comes out OK.
Am I right in thinking that it should be about 1 degree negative for a biplane?
I hear lots of different views on this, i.e slightly negative or slightly positive decalage.
I'm just annoyed with myself that I couldn't follow this Puppeteer building thread [because of the usual 'English disease' of not speaking a foreign language]. It looks packed with lots of interesting information.
Vince