dank je wel voor je moeite die je hebt genomen. Dit ritueel kende ik al alleen laat mijn jive de piepsignalen niet horen. Heb kontronik aangeschreven voor een oplossing
kontronik jive
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- Startdatum
dank je wel voor je moeite die je hebt genomen. Dit ritueel kende ik al alleen laat mijn jive de piepsignalen niet horen. Heb kontronik aangeschreven voor een oplossing
Al andere motor geprobeerd?
Al geprobeerd met de bec te programmeren ipv losse lipo?
heb je de endpoints gecalibreerd? je moet voordat je mode 4 programmeert eerst mode1 programmeren...
Deze procedure is al in het Nederlands verklaart,misschien lukt het in het engels beter...
Step 1 - Set Things Up for Programming
· Set the Normal Throttle Curve to: 0% / optional% / 100%
· Connect your ESC to your RX.
· Turn on your radio and set the throttle to zero
· Power up your Rx if it’s on a dedicated Rx pack.
Step 2 - Reset the Programming in the ESC (Mode 1)
· Make sure the little black jumper/tab is in the ESC (it doesn’t matter on which pins) then power up the ESC with your flight pack.
· Pull out the little black tab after you hear the ascending tones from the ESC.
· Mode Selection: At the first beep, raise the throttle to full throttle and listen for the descending tones.
· Listen for the confirmation beep(s) counting off which mode has just been programmed (one in this case).
· Unplug the battery and replace the little black jumper.
Programming the ESC for Helicopter Use (Mode 4)
· Repeat Step 2, except at “Mode Selection” wait for four beeps before selecting full throttle.
Programming LiPo Mode (Mode 9)
· Repeat Step 2, except at “Mode Selection” wait for nine beeps before selecting full throttle.
Setting Up Governor RPM
The manual tells you nothing about how to set up Governor RPM, but it is easy. Set up straight horizontal lines for your Idle Up 1 and Idle Up 2 curves (example: Idle Up 1 to: 60% / 60% / 60% and Idle Up 2 to: 80% / 80% / 80%). Move these curves (flat lines) up and down at the field to set the desired RPM levels. Switching between flight modes will change your head speed to these preset governed speeds. Do not use V curves (i.e. 100% / 80% / 100%). This will mess the governor up.
If you set your Normal Throttle Curve to be any ascending line (example: 0% / 60% / 100%), your head speed will not be governed in Normal mode. You can also set your Normal Throttle Curve to something like: 0% / 60% / 60% if you want the lower half of your Throttle Curve to act ungoverned, and everything above mid-stick to be governed to whatever rpm level the flat part of the curve produces.
Tricks and Traps
· When programming, the three modes mentioned above (1,4,9) the programming effects are cumulative. Mode 1 resets everything, Mode 2 programs in Heli settings, Mode 3 keeps the Heli settings and adds LiPo settings.
· Align 700e – If you use the Jive 80+ HV, make sure to program Mode 10 in addition to the above three Modes (1,4,9,10). This prevents the ESC from shutting down on power spikes. The 80+ HV can handle the demands of the 700e just fine, especially with a heat sink added. But if you don’t program Mode 10 in, you will be practicing surprise auto rotations.
· Mode 11 is the same as Mode 4 except it does a better job of keeping your head speed consistent if switching between battery packs of significantly different power capabilities.
· If you accidently or otherwise reprogram Mode 1 at any point, you’ve reset everything else, so you have to reprogram Modes 4 and 9 again.
· Most people say there is no need to access more detailed programming features of the Jive by using ProgCards I and/or II, or the ProgDisk. Personally I prefer some of the changes these cards make possible. I think it’s a good idea to increase the LiPo shut-down level from 2.7v per cell to 3.0v, and I prefer that it would slow down rather than shut completely off. I also want 6v to my servos. Unfortunately, that means buying both ProgCards or the ProgDisk. It’s not necessary, but it’s better.
· If you have ProgCard I or ProgDisk, and have programmed your ESC using your Tx (1,4, 9), don’t mess with the “Stick Positions” (Set Motor Off Position, Set Full Gas, etc.). The stick positions are programmed during the normal course of programming (i.e. changing from zero throttle to full throttle to select each mode). Reprogramming Stick Positions using the ProgCard/Disk messes with the throttle channel’s effective endpoints and can make the ESC nonresponsive.
· If you find you can no longer arm the ESC, do a Mode 1 reset. When you pull out the little black jumper, you will hear the descending tones and can go from there.
Step 1 - Set Things Up for Programming
· Set the Normal Throttle Curve to: 0% / optional% / 100%
· Connect your ESC to your RX.
· Turn on your radio and set the throttle to zero
· Power up your Rx if it’s on a dedicated Rx pack.
Step 2 - Reset the Programming in the ESC (Mode 1)
· Make sure the little black jumper/tab is in the ESC (it doesn’t matter on which pins) then power up the ESC with your flight pack.
· Pull out the little black tab after you hear the ascending tones from the ESC.
· Mode Selection: At the first beep, raise the throttle to full throttle and listen for the descending tones.
· Listen for the confirmation beep(s) counting off which mode has just been programmed (one in this case).
· Unplug the battery and replace the little black jumper.
Programming the ESC for Helicopter Use (Mode 4)
· Repeat Step 2, except at “Mode Selection” wait for four beeps before selecting full throttle.
Programming LiPo Mode (Mode 9)
· Repeat Step 2, except at “Mode Selection” wait for nine beeps before selecting full throttle.
Setting Up Governor RPM
The manual tells you nothing about how to set up Governor RPM, but it is easy. Set up straight horizontal lines for your Idle Up 1 and Idle Up 2 curves (example: Idle Up 1 to: 60% / 60% / 60% and Idle Up 2 to: 80% / 80% / 80%). Move these curves (flat lines) up and down at the field to set the desired RPM levels. Switching between flight modes will change your head speed to these preset governed speeds. Do not use V curves (i.e. 100% / 80% / 100%). This will mess the governor up.
If you set your Normal Throttle Curve to be any ascending line (example: 0% / 60% / 100%), your head speed will not be governed in Normal mode. You can also set your Normal Throttle Curve to something like: 0% / 60% / 60% if you want the lower half of your Throttle Curve to act ungoverned, and everything above mid-stick to be governed to whatever rpm level the flat part of the curve produces.
Tricks and Traps
· When programming, the three modes mentioned above (1,4,9) the programming effects are cumulative. Mode 1 resets everything, Mode 2 programs in Heli settings, Mode 3 keeps the Heli settings and adds LiPo settings.
· Align 700e – If you use the Jive 80+ HV, make sure to program Mode 10 in addition to the above three Modes (1,4,9,10). This prevents the ESC from shutting down on power spikes. The 80+ HV can handle the demands of the 700e just fine, especially with a heat sink added. But if you don’t program Mode 10 in, you will be practicing surprise auto rotations.
· Mode 11 is the same as Mode 4 except it does a better job of keeping your head speed consistent if switching between battery packs of significantly different power capabilities.
· If you accidently or otherwise reprogram Mode 1 at any point, you’ve reset everything else, so you have to reprogram Modes 4 and 9 again.
· Most people say there is no need to access more detailed programming features of the Jive by using ProgCards I and/or II, or the ProgDisk. Personally I prefer some of the changes these cards make possible. I think it’s a good idea to increase the LiPo shut-down level from 2.7v per cell to 3.0v, and I prefer that it would slow down rather than shut completely off. I also want 6v to my servos. Unfortunately, that means buying both ProgCards or the ProgDisk. It’s not necessary, but it’s better.
· If you have ProgCard I or ProgDisk, and have programmed your ESC using your Tx (1,4, 9), don’t mess with the “Stick Positions” (Set Motor Off Position, Set Full Gas, etc.). The stick positions are programmed during the normal course of programming (i.e. changing from zero throttle to full throttle to select each mode). Reprogramming Stick Positions using the ProgCard/Disk messes with the throttle channel’s effective endpoints and can make the ESC nonresponsive.
· If you find you can no longer arm the ESC, do a Mode 1 reset. When you pull out the little black jumper, you will hear the descending tones and can go from there.
ook bec geprobeerd. Andere motoe nee, maar ik heb recenteljk nog wel gevlogen op een "moment dat hij het wel deed" door 30 keer lipos aan te sluiten los los te koppelen