New homemade bullet outboard

Thank you Jan!
Hmm... I was also looking for bending tools but then (during the construction of my first o/b) I tried bending an empty (without teflon and flex) tube very very slowly by hand and it worked nicely.
I very light flattening is inevitable without a bending tool, but it does not affect the rotation of the flex shaft because I don't use a teflon inner which decreases materially the inner diameter of the tube.
I fill the tube with a thick white grease (for ball bearings) using a syringe before every use and this seems to work nicely.

 

Interesting Dim. I've seen that solution before. What size of tube inner diameter do you use with what flex shaft?

 

I use 5 (6)mm inner(outer) diameter tube with a 4mm flex in the current application:


With a 3.2 mm flex i used and a 4(5)mm inner(outer) diameter tube.

 

I use a brake line pipe bender.
And some times just my hands .
But then ,I am professional pipe bender

 

Hello rc friends!
I started working on the outboard cover. This time is a woody one that will be laminateed with 100 gr fiberglass both in the inside and the outside.
I did try to replicate the boxy shape of the f1 mercury racing outboard keeping the proportions as close as possible to the real one.
It was a quick and relatively easy build. Next step is fiberglassing.

 

Very nice Dim ,I must try to make one to.
My outboard is a kind of naked without it.

 

Thanks Alex!
It was an easy build. I drew a top view and a side view and then I built it with balsa stringers and 0.8 mm ply. Fiberglassing will make it strong and waterproof.

 

Nice work! I like making these kind of details and it looks so much better on your boat as well!

 

Thank you Jan.
Indeed it looks better on the boat. I also finished the lower leg after 6 - 7 circles of primer-putty-sanding.

 

Very smooth work!

 

Indeed smooth,looks very good!

 

Wow, beautiful!
I guess you spend some time in your model-boating-cave

 

Haha thanks Michael!
Oh yes it took me some time ...

 

Goodmorning rc frriends!

Let me share with you a short construction video of a Tohatsu 30 hp cowl for my mini TFL outboard.

I wanted a "scale" Tohatsu cowl for a new project and I also wanted to hide the long 2960 turnigy motor.

 

New steering arms and new details on the cowl. I used balsa to sculpt it to shape. I think it is closer to the real one now...

 

Nice work and it indeed looks even better on the cowl.
Regarding the steering arms on the outboard; do they align with the steering hinge pin of the outboard? It seems the steering arms are behind the hinge point. That will not work properly, because the travel of the steering arm is not uniform.
I hope you get my point, otherwise I make a sketch

 

Indeed the steering arms are well behind the hinge point and yes I think I got your point... the linkages and the servo will suffer right?

The problem is that it is technically difficult to build the steering arms on or at near the hinge point.

Another thought is to make a steering system like the real ones with steel wires or like your 152vo boat.

Anyway I see how I ll fix it.

Thank you Jan for pointing this out!!

 

Yes, the issue is, that when your linkage is not aligned with the hinge point of the outboard, that the travel length is not equal, steering left and right.

You will have the same issue with 152VO style wire linkage. The wire will slack and tension during the travel.

I'm sure you will figure it out

 

Thanks Jan I really appreciate it, your advice was really usefull!

 

The outboard hatch has now been laminated with 100gr fiberglass and the lower part has been enhanced with a 3mm ply. I have also figured out how the upper part will be mounted to the lower part.










PS. The steering arms have been removed and the new ones are prepared so as to be aligned to the hinge pin.