Hello Almal
With all training centers in Jiangsu Province closed again because of Covid-19, I kept full-sail ahead with the sampan.
Rigging:
The configuration is of course very close to that of the Chinese Junk and is unique in that it features no standing rigging. A very good introduction on this type of rigging is the article by Pat Reynolds
What’s in a Rig Series #3
There’s probably no rig more fascinating than the junk rig. Long before Columbus’ time, early as the 10th century, the Chinese were making their way through the oceans with a rig that has amazingly stood the test of the time. There are many who feel that this very old but very innovative sail plan is superior to the more popular and ubiquitous sloop rig and others.
The junk is predicated upon sails that are fully battened, a characteristic associated with more modern racing vessels and they typically lack any standing rigging (stays and shrouds). They are a completely different looking sail plan and in practice it’s clear the early Chinese engineers and designers were way ahead of their time. A thousand years later, there are advocates ready to point out the many areas where the junks reign supreme.
Due to the full batten set-up, the sails maintain an efficient consistent shape and are fast, especially downwind. In a big breeze junk owners will attest that they’re extremely easy to reef and, as an added bonus, are inherently self-tacking. There are obvious cost benefits to not having any standing rigging – no maintenance, replacement or (costs aside) anxiety about sudden failure. Because of the full battens, there’s also no flogging or flapping of sails and there’s fewer blind spots, like what you might experience with a large genoa on a sloop or cutter rig.
The main disadvantage that’s cited with junk rigs is there upwind deficiency. Although there are theories as to how to improve this, most junk owners will concede that the best they can do is come closer to how well a sloop travels upwind.
If we can just for a moment take a look again at Admiral’ Anna's sail, you will see that marked # 1-7 are the battens. The fact that the High-Net Fishing sampan had 7 battens meant that it was a large one by sampan standards – normally they had either four or five battens.
My first job was to glue the sheeting lines to the Port Side of the battens. You can see that I used a large sheet of paper to clamp the sail to and then I drew the angle of the sheeting lines on that. The Euphroe (essentially a friction block), through which all the sheeting lines pass and which maintains equal tension on all the lines is seen above connected to the lines.
Verskoning dat de pllatje op zij kop staat.
With all the sheeting lines attached to the battens and the with the Euphroe in place, all 8 lines were stropped where they were affixed to the battens. On the picture above you can see that I have already glued the stropping lines into position.
Then it was time to move onto the mast. I was really not happy with the “mast” that Unicorn supplied. It was too thin in diameter (according to scale), it wasn’t straight and it actually looked as if it was made up of two pieces of wood glued together. I raided my scrap materials box, but found nothing suitable. Then … brainwave. The Haarlem’s dowelling! They were 1mm too thick in diameter but some sanding brought it to exactly the correct diameter. However, there was one major problem – the color. It was almost white in appearance compared to the reddish hue of the Pear Wood. Untreated it stuck out like a sore thumb so something had to be done.
I made contact with some prominent Chinese modelers to find out what they use to stain wood (My Kolderstok stain was far too dark and I wasn’t going to place an order to the Netherlands just for that). They advised me to use Shellac – the first time for me using that.
This is how the product is advertised on Taobao. I obviously selected the “red” color shellac (It is the closest in color to the almost reddish shine of the Pear Wood) and together with a bottle of 99% alcohol, ordered my stash from Taobao.
Now comes the fun part where I get to be alchemist. The dry shellac flakes and alcohol are mixed in a ratio of 1:5.
Even though the alcohol had just been added to the shellac, you can already see the colour that it is assuming. 50 grams of Shellac / 100ml of alcohol.
After 15 minutes. this was what the mixture was looking like. If you look closely you can almost see a Chinese flag in the spoon (There are just too many yellow stars!)
And after approximately an hour, the mixture was ready for application. Mixing the shellac, I all did with meticulous attention to step-by-step pictures, but when it came to treating the mast with the shellac, I did not take any pictures! Stupid!
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