Cozy F1 T800 - houtbouw F1 tunnel

[Dim L]

I also think that a nice addition would also be to make the bottom at the nose of the cowl with hydrodynamic shape (like the center of the hull) not just a flat piece of plywood.

 

[Dirk Jan]

I also think that a nice addition would also be to make the bottom at the nose of the cowl with hydrodynamic shape (like the center of the hull) not just a flat piece of plywood.

Yes, that will be done. It needs to be, to nicely fit the hull actually.

 

[Dirk Jan]

Ik ben begonnen aan de outboard kap. Ik maak de vorm van hardschuim, die ik vervolgens lamineer met glas- of carbonweefsel. Dan haal ik achteraf het schuim eruit.
Hieronder in stappen de vorming van de outboard kap. Ik heb houten malletjes gebruikt voor het schuren, zodat de vorm er mooi strak in komt.

Even passen op het geheel. In verhouding is de kap wellicht iets te groot, maar dat komt omdat de 3674 motor erin moet passen. De tunnelkap moet nog iets weggeknipt worden aan de achterkant, maar zover ben ik tevreden!

 

[Dim L]

Very beautiful Jan! It fits very nicely and seems proportional to the hull and cowl. I don t think it's too big.
Did you draw the templates using pc or by hand?

 

[Dirk Jan]

Thanks Dim [emoji106]

I hand sketched the templates, as the shape is not so complex.

 

[Dim L]

So a bigger motor does t fit to the cowl?

 

[Dim L]

I mean the cover of the outboard

 

[Dirk Jan]

It depends on the electrical wires. In case of my SSS motor, they exit the motor from the back of the end bell, which is not beneficial (see earlier photos).
Internal height of the outboard cover is approx 92mm. Width is approx 65mm as smallest. A 4082 motor could fit if the wires exit from the side. But there seems no need for that. I built a relatively light hull, with relatively light setup: 6S 4500mAh, 120A esc and 3674 motor. As you know, the hull reaches 85+ km/h easily with the stock 443 prop.

4082 motor would need a 150A esc and preferably a 5000mAh lipo for run times. I guess the performance will not be much better due to increased weight.
That's just my thoughts. I like to build light and go fast at the same time [emoji3].

 

[Dim L]

You are right Jan, but I know that you like to experiment so I thought it would be nice to have some extra space in case you want to try a bigger motor . Indeed the speed of the hull is great.

 

[Tamiya1970]

It depends on the electrical wires. In case of my SSS motor, they exit the motor from the back of the end bell, which is not beneficial (see earlier photos).
Internal height of the outboard cover is approx 92mm. Width is approx 65mm as smallest. A 4082 motor could fit if the wires exit from the side. But there seems no need for that. I built a relatively light hull, with relatively light setup: 6S 4500mAh, 120A esc and 3674 motor. As you know, the hull reaches 85+ km/h easily with the stock 443 prop.

4082 motor would need a 150A esc and preferably a 5000mAh lipo for run times. I guess the performance will not be much better due to increased weight.
That's just my thoughts. I like to build light and go fast at the same time [emoji3].

No need for a 40 size [emoji6]

 

[Tamiya1970]

Mooi man die motorkap ,staat super !

 

[Dirk Jan]

6 lagen 80gr/m2 verder heb ik de outboard kap doormidden gezaagd en het meeste foam eruit gehaald. Het goede nieuws is dat de motor erin past!
Onafgewerkt gewicht is 45 gram.
Nu verder afwerken, zoals uitsparingen erin maken voor de stuurstangen en motorkabels, bevestiging bedenken voor het bovenste deel en in kleur spuiten met Mercury stickers erop [emoji41]

 

[Dim L]

Looking great Jan. Looking forward to seeing the paint job.

 

[Dim L]

Bytheway why not carbon fiber?

 

[Dirk Jan]

I only have 200gr/m2 carbon fiber cloth and the cover has a too small radius on top and on the sides for that cloth.

I tried but no succes! Then I should use a negative mold, that would be easier.

 

[Dim L]

Indeed, 200 gr is very stiff for such curved surfaces. Fiberglass is just fine you wouldn't save more than 5 6 grammars I think.

 

[Tamiya1970]

Nice job[emoji1303]

 

[Dirk Jan]

Ik bouw langzaam steeds een stapje verder. De outboard kap heeft een bevestiging gekregen met 4 boutjes en het onderste deel is van binnen gelamineerd. Ook ben ik begonnen aan de onderkant van de cockpit.

De decals / stickers zijn geprint voor op de T800. Op decalpapier met een laserprinter. De decals voor de outboard liggen er hier naast. De overige laat ik zien als de boot beplakt is [emoji41]

Hier het begin van de cockpit. De onderkant wordt nog gevormd naar de romp, zodat het niet enkel een vlak plaatje is.

 

[Dim L]

Beautiful work as always Jan. I like the way you secured the outboard hood very clever.

 

[Dirk Jan]

De onderkant van de cockpit is opgebouwd uit balsa, wat ik in vorm geschuurd heb.

Vervolgens 2x 50gr/m2 glasweefsel erop. Van binnen is hij ook volledig gelamineerd. De onderkant zit met verdikte epoxy vastgelijmd onder de cowl.