jan brilman
Forum veteraan
YES!
Found it!
Een lang verhaal, maar wie weet . . . :?
How many times have you admired bare metal airplanes & wished you knew how to make a finish that looked like real aluminum, but wasn't hard to apply, didn't add a ton of unneeded weight like real metal, or cost a small fortune?
I know I've admired many all metal airplane models over the years and always asked myself "How in the world do they do that?" Well in preparing a new racer for the Warbird racing scene, I discovered a way to make a finish that looks like real aluminum, is lightweight, reasonable in cost, and is quick to do. Too good to be true you say? Well...keep reading and I'll tell you how I did it.
I'm very pleased with the result and intend to enter the airplane in static judging at Tucson, Az. Scale Warbird Racing Assn. race over the Labor Day weekend, and think I will score well.
There are various ways to duplicate real metal on a chosen subject, including real metal, aluminum tape, and various commercial type methods, but the easiest way I've found is to use Chrome Monokote®.
Now, before you scale purists who shun the use of Monokote® for anything but a sport bird, start turning your noses up, keep reading and you may be surprised. I was very sceptical myself when my son suggested it, but decided to at least try it because of time constraints.
I'm glad I did, because the result was certainly pleasing and fit the bill for a metal airplane quickly and cheaply.
The method I used to duplicate the P 51 World Jet Unlimited racer follows and can be done by anyone who can apply Monokote®. The first thing you should do of course......(are you ready for this guys?) is to finish out your model construction; making all hatches, fillets, cowlings, and so forth. Sand...(SAND) the model completely as you "normally do" with a combination of blocks and hand sanding.
Smooth the high spots and fill in the low spots using spackling or one of the balsa fillers on the market. After I finish "sanding" the airframe, I then "go back over it with at least 300 grit sandpaper" to really smooth the surface.
Remember, any hole, seam, or other defect left will show through the Monokote®, so fill them and sand them level until they can't be seen. This is the single most important part of getting superior metallic finishes. Remember, real metal is somewhat (to say the very least) reflective when it is in skylight and defects will really show up on a smooth "shiny" surface. When satisfied that the surface is as smooth as you can make it, you are ready to proceed on to step two, (2).
Brush on a thin coat of Balsarite© fabric adhesive cut about 25 to 30 % with acetone, everywhere youplan to put Monokote©. Give it a few hours to completely dry, (preferably overnight) then sand it... thoroughly with 300 grit (or finer) sandpaper...until smooth.
Don't worry, the Balsarite© will have soaked into the raw balsa you really can't sand it "all" off. You only want to smooth the airframe anyway, so don't get carried away with the sanding.
Don't eliminate the Balsarite© as unneeded, because if you don't apply it, you WILL get wrinkles, and "lots" of them, all the time. The Balsarite© seals the wood and gives the Monokote© adhesive something to grab on to which seems to prevent "almost all" the wrinkles. You may get a few now and then, but they are easy to heat out with your iron.
Now for the "easy" part. If you prefer, you can cut panels out of the Chrome Monokote© and apply them individually to match the airplane you are modeling, which is a heck of a lot of work and is really not necessary, but proceed with the panels if you must. It "looks great", but only from about a foot away. Beyond that, you can't see it anyway, and unless you're entering (AMA 515 class) "Designer Scale" events where every rivet is counted, this is not really necessary for a "super" looking job. I cover the airplane in very large pieces just like I would normal colored Monokote©.
You need to be careful and keep the iron slightly cooler than you would for colored Monokote©. Chrome Monokote© has a tendency to cloud, or discolor if you get it too hot, so you should experiment on scrap pieces to set the iron's temperature so that it shrinks the covering, but doesn't discolor it.
Don't worry, it'll be hot enough to securely stick on Monokote©. Also, don't worry about scratches on that mirrored surface of the Monokote©, you will take care of those later. Just concentrate on getting a good, wrinkle free, and securely attached covering job.
In some cases, I've not had luck adhering Monokote© onto a wing fillet, cowling, and other "concave" surfaces. I have found that Coverite Chrome Presto© "sheets" are the dynamite solution for covering those surfaces. Coverite Chrome Presto© has a peel and stick adhesive which can also be "heated & stretched" if need be.
Coverite Chrome Presto© is an excellent match with Monokote© "after" the Chrome Monokote© is "properly treated".
I applied Coverite Chrome Presto© on my World Jet's wing fillets which were made of ABS plastic. While easy to apply Monokote© to the airplane's wood surfaces, it was difficult to properly cover this ABS plastic surfaced fillet. Coverite Chrome Presto© adhered perfectly, and so far has stayed in place without lifting.
When finished with this covering job, use acetone on a soft cloth to remove unwanted adhesive that oozed from under the seams. It is always a good idea to wear rubber gloves when using chemicals.
You don't want to make your wife an early widow, before her time.
Now, you have a chrome airplane, don't despair because it really doesn't look very much like an aluminum airplane yet...it will.
Now you're ready for the part where the plastic chrome covering is transformed into real aluminum. Buy 0000 grade steel wool from the Hobby Shop or builder's supply make sure it's at least 000 and preferably 0000. Take a small piece about 2" square & start rubbing the Chrome Monokote©. Sometimes rub in only 1 direction, and when I get tired, I just start rubbing back & forth.
In the end, it doesn't much matter, the scratches eventually all blend in, anyway. As the steel wool gets dull (and it does fairly often) change it around or turn it over, and occasionally, get another piece.
WOW! As you rub, you will watch Chrome Monokote© transform itself into real aluminum like magic. In fact, the more you rub, the more it looks like real aluminum. You will occasionally lift seams, but a hot iron will soon cure that problem. (if you've not rubbed the adhesive away, if you did, simply use a small brush, apply Balsarite©, let it dry and then iron the seam back down).
Once you've finished the rubbing & have an aluminum airplane, the fun begins. Consulting your three view (you "DO" have an accurate three view with panel lines, rivets, Dzus fastners, etc. don't you?) apply your panel lines with a flexible plastic ruler & a soft #2 lead pencil. You'll find the lead pencil will indent the surface. By leaving a light residue of carbon in a resulting grove,it will appear to be very realistic panel lines.
Be careful and don't press so hard that you break surface of the Monokote©; it takes a considerable amount of pressure to do so. As you work, you'll be amazed that the airplane will come alive.
If you mess up a panel line or put it in the wrong place, just use the iron on it, and it will go away.
Once you're finished applying all your lines, cut a piece of brass tubing the approximate size of the rivets and Dzus fastners you want to duplicate.
I cut my tubes between 4 or 5 inches long, then wrap masking tape around middle of the tube, approximately 2/3 of the distance from one end. This increases the diameter making it more comfortableto hold. Decide where you want your rivets, fasteners, etc. & gently press end of tube with a rocking motion onto Monokoted© surface.
WOW! ! Amazingly, you've just created a realistic surface feature. A little practice & you'll be moving along very quickly. I sharpen end of my tubes with a counter sink or Xacto© knife for sharper detail. You can add hatches, inspection plates, fuel caps, & other details by using aluminum freezer or duct tape cut to the proper shape and applied to the Monokote©.
You can also use a template for circles and your trusty #2 lead pencil to draw them on just like you did your panel lines. In addition, I've used a soldering iron to melt rivets and fastners into theMonokote© surface. This can get a little tricky because you must adjust the length of your brass tubing to keep it from getting too hot, melting holes in the Monokote©. The longer a tube is, the cooler it is. The iron I use requires a tube about 4.5" long to make good, sharp rivets. Yours will vary somewhat from that, so don't be afraid to experiment on scrap pieces to see what effect you can make.
Once you've finished with the lines & other surface details, add decals and stand back to admire your realistic aluminum finish.
It always amazes me how closely it resembles real aluminum. I don't spray clear over the surface to seal decals like I do painted surfaces because it covers & fills in the minute scratches you've
just applied with the steel wool...it becomes Chrome Monokote© again. I've had good luck with this method so far. It is quick, cheap, light, & as easy as applying normal Monokote©.
Try it, I think you'll like the results. Use your imagination, and you will find other ways to add details. I hope you enjoy this method of aluminum surfacing.
Wacht vol spanning op de eerste plaatjes . . . :rolling:
jan.
Found it!
Een lang verhaal, maar wie weet . . . :?
How many times have you admired bare metal airplanes & wished you knew how to make a finish that looked like real aluminum, but wasn't hard to apply, didn't add a ton of unneeded weight like real metal, or cost a small fortune?
I know I've admired many all metal airplane models over the years and always asked myself "How in the world do they do that?" Well in preparing a new racer for the Warbird racing scene, I discovered a way to make a finish that looks like real aluminum, is lightweight, reasonable in cost, and is quick to do. Too good to be true you say? Well...keep reading and I'll tell you how I did it.
I'm very pleased with the result and intend to enter the airplane in static judging at Tucson, Az. Scale Warbird Racing Assn. race over the Labor Day weekend, and think I will score well.
There are various ways to duplicate real metal on a chosen subject, including real metal, aluminum tape, and various commercial type methods, but the easiest way I've found is to use Chrome Monokote®.
Now, before you scale purists who shun the use of Monokote® for anything but a sport bird, start turning your noses up, keep reading and you may be surprised. I was very sceptical myself when my son suggested it, but decided to at least try it because of time constraints.
I'm glad I did, because the result was certainly pleasing and fit the bill for a metal airplane quickly and cheaply.
The method I used to duplicate the P 51 World Jet Unlimited racer follows and can be done by anyone who can apply Monokote®. The first thing you should do of course......(are you ready for this guys?) is to finish out your model construction; making all hatches, fillets, cowlings, and so forth. Sand...(SAND) the model completely as you "normally do" with a combination of blocks and hand sanding.
Smooth the high spots and fill in the low spots using spackling or one of the balsa fillers on the market. After I finish "sanding" the airframe, I then "go back over it with at least 300 grit sandpaper" to really smooth the surface.
Remember, any hole, seam, or other defect left will show through the Monokote®, so fill them and sand them level until they can't be seen. This is the single most important part of getting superior metallic finishes. Remember, real metal is somewhat (to say the very least) reflective when it is in skylight and defects will really show up on a smooth "shiny" surface. When satisfied that the surface is as smooth as you can make it, you are ready to proceed on to step two, (2).
Brush on a thin coat of Balsarite© fabric adhesive cut about 25 to 30 % with acetone, everywhere youplan to put Monokote©. Give it a few hours to completely dry, (preferably overnight) then sand it... thoroughly with 300 grit (or finer) sandpaper...until smooth.
Don't worry, the Balsarite© will have soaked into the raw balsa you really can't sand it "all" off. You only want to smooth the airframe anyway, so don't get carried away with the sanding.
Don't eliminate the Balsarite© as unneeded, because if you don't apply it, you WILL get wrinkles, and "lots" of them, all the time. The Balsarite© seals the wood and gives the Monokote© adhesive something to grab on to which seems to prevent "almost all" the wrinkles. You may get a few now and then, but they are easy to heat out with your iron.
Now for the "easy" part. If you prefer, you can cut panels out of the Chrome Monokote© and apply them individually to match the airplane you are modeling, which is a heck of a lot of work and is really not necessary, but proceed with the panels if you must. It "looks great", but only from about a foot away. Beyond that, you can't see it anyway, and unless you're entering (AMA 515 class) "Designer Scale" events where every rivet is counted, this is not really necessary for a "super" looking job. I cover the airplane in very large pieces just like I would normal colored Monokote©.
You need to be careful and keep the iron slightly cooler than you would for colored Monokote©. Chrome Monokote© has a tendency to cloud, or discolor if you get it too hot, so you should experiment on scrap pieces to set the iron's temperature so that it shrinks the covering, but doesn't discolor it.
Don't worry, it'll be hot enough to securely stick on Monokote©. Also, don't worry about scratches on that mirrored surface of the Monokote©, you will take care of those later. Just concentrate on getting a good, wrinkle free, and securely attached covering job.
In some cases, I've not had luck adhering Monokote© onto a wing fillet, cowling, and other "concave" surfaces. I have found that Coverite Chrome Presto© "sheets" are the dynamite solution for covering those surfaces. Coverite Chrome Presto© has a peel and stick adhesive which can also be "heated & stretched" if need be.
Coverite Chrome Presto© is an excellent match with Monokote© "after" the Chrome Monokote© is "properly treated".
I applied Coverite Chrome Presto© on my World Jet's wing fillets which were made of ABS plastic. While easy to apply Monokote© to the airplane's wood surfaces, it was difficult to properly cover this ABS plastic surfaced fillet. Coverite Chrome Presto© adhered perfectly, and so far has stayed in place without lifting.
When finished with this covering job, use acetone on a soft cloth to remove unwanted adhesive that oozed from under the seams. It is always a good idea to wear rubber gloves when using chemicals.
You don't want to make your wife an early widow, before her time.
Now, you have a chrome airplane, don't despair because it really doesn't look very much like an aluminum airplane yet...it will.
Now you're ready for the part where the plastic chrome covering is transformed into real aluminum. Buy 0000 grade steel wool from the Hobby Shop or builder's supply make sure it's at least 000 and preferably 0000. Take a small piece about 2" square & start rubbing the Chrome Monokote©. Sometimes rub in only 1 direction, and when I get tired, I just start rubbing back & forth.
In the end, it doesn't much matter, the scratches eventually all blend in, anyway. As the steel wool gets dull (and it does fairly often) change it around or turn it over, and occasionally, get another piece.
WOW! As you rub, you will watch Chrome Monokote© transform itself into real aluminum like magic. In fact, the more you rub, the more it looks like real aluminum. You will occasionally lift seams, but a hot iron will soon cure that problem. (if you've not rubbed the adhesive away, if you did, simply use a small brush, apply Balsarite©, let it dry and then iron the seam back down).
Once you've finished the rubbing & have an aluminum airplane, the fun begins. Consulting your three view (you "DO" have an accurate three view with panel lines, rivets, Dzus fastners, etc. don't you?) apply your panel lines with a flexible plastic ruler & a soft #2 lead pencil. You'll find the lead pencil will indent the surface. By leaving a light residue of carbon in a resulting grove,it will appear to be very realistic panel lines.
Be careful and don't press so hard that you break surface of the Monokote©; it takes a considerable amount of pressure to do so. As you work, you'll be amazed that the airplane will come alive.
If you mess up a panel line or put it in the wrong place, just use the iron on it, and it will go away.
Once you're finished applying all your lines, cut a piece of brass tubing the approximate size of the rivets and Dzus fastners you want to duplicate.
I cut my tubes between 4 or 5 inches long, then wrap masking tape around middle of the tube, approximately 2/3 of the distance from one end. This increases the diameter making it more comfortableto hold. Decide where you want your rivets, fasteners, etc. & gently press end of tube with a rocking motion onto Monokoted© surface.
WOW! ! Amazingly, you've just created a realistic surface feature. A little practice & you'll be moving along very quickly. I sharpen end of my tubes with a counter sink or Xacto© knife for sharper detail. You can add hatches, inspection plates, fuel caps, & other details by using aluminum freezer or duct tape cut to the proper shape and applied to the Monokote©.
You can also use a template for circles and your trusty #2 lead pencil to draw them on just like you did your panel lines. In addition, I've used a soldering iron to melt rivets and fastners into theMonokote© surface. This can get a little tricky because you must adjust the length of your brass tubing to keep it from getting too hot, melting holes in the Monokote©. The longer a tube is, the cooler it is. The iron I use requires a tube about 4.5" long to make good, sharp rivets. Yours will vary somewhat from that, so don't be afraid to experiment on scrap pieces to see what effect you can make.
Once you've finished with the lines & other surface details, add decals and stand back to admire your realistic aluminum finish.
It always amazes me how closely it resembles real aluminum. I don't spray clear over the surface to seal decals like I do painted surfaces because it covers & fills in the minute scratches you've
just applied with the steel wool...it becomes Chrome Monokote© again. I've had good luck with this method so far. It is quick, cheap, light, & as easy as applying normal Monokote©.
Try it, I think you'll like the results. Use your imagination, and you will find other ways to add details. I hope you enjoy this method of aluminum surfacing.
Wacht vol spanning op de eerste plaatjes . . . :rolling:
jan.
jammer dat de resolutie op dit forum wat minder is :wink: 
maar hiervoor een goede reden was om te repareren.
knap werk ton!
ngeveer 3 maanden sneller afgewerkt als de mijne :wink: 
