Hello Everyone
As promised, here is the next update.
With the spanten dry-fitted onto the false keel, it was time to see how this would fit into the jig. That was when the fun started. By design, the bulkheads fit relatively loosely into the jig (to enable easy removal from the jig later on), but this means that it would also require an endless "gepriegel" of the jig, spanten and false keel to get everything to fit properly. This would be an exercise that I didn’t have patience for, so it was time for Plan B.
Seeing that Spanten #10, #11 and #12 (marked in red on the picture below) have to be glued together via two braces (outlined in yellow) in any case, I decided that this was a good starting point. That way I knew that those three spanten at least would be perfectly aligned on the keel and that this assembly - theoretically at least - could be used to line up the rest of the assembly. First, I glued the braces between these three spanten and with the glue still wet, the assembly was inserted into the jig to ensure proper alignment.
Overview of the assembly with the three spanten and false keel.
After everything had dried properly, it was a case of gluing one spant at a time to the false keel and fitting it into the jig, checking alignment. This was a time consuming process, but in the end the whole false keel/spanten assembly fits seamlessly into all jig slots and lie completely flat on the jig. Mission accomplished.
Unfortunately, I did not take a photo of this either so I had to borrow a picture from a Russian build log on an Italian model building forum (Modellismo) which shows this part of the assembly completed.
Op hierdie plaatje kan die afschuinsing van die spanten ook duidelik gesien word.
Beplanking van die Romp::
Then it was time for the first layer of planking for which Anegri wood is supplied. I have no knowledge of this wood other than the fact it is 1.00mm thick, relatively light in colour and has a pronounced grain. The first thing I realised is that I could forget about clamps or push pins. There is simply no space for the clamps between the spanten (there are 21 spanten squeezed into a hull-only length of only 28 cm) while the MDF would be too vulnerable for the use of push pins. For the benefit of modellers interested in this kit, here is how I planked the hull.
Both edges of each plank was sanded to make sure they were absolutely smooth. Elementary maybe, but on this kit they butt up perfectly if sanded - if not there is a gap.
Both edges of each plank is sanded.
The other novelty that has to be taken into account, is that the whole hull is not planked during the first-layer planking.
The planking runs from Spant #17 at the agterstewe up to Spant #5 at the Bow side.
The edges of every single plank was glued. On the first plank, (I always start with the zandstrook) the edge that will butt up against the false keel is glued. On the next planks the edge of the previous plank (as indicated below) is glued.
Next I applied PVA glue to all the bulkheads that are to be planked
EXCEPT THOSE AS INDICATED ON THE PICTURES BELOW.
At the agterstewe, I did not glue the last two Spanten - in other words # 16 and #17 (indicated by the yellow arrows).
Towards the Bow, I did not glue the last bulkhead - in other words # 5 (indicated by yellow arrow).
Each plank was then held under cold water for about 5 seconds until it was properly wet, but not soaked. I would then simply wipe each plank between my fingers to endure there were no droplets left.
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