koop, of bouw een Pro10/WGT/F1. Keep pancars alive!
- Topicstarter Oscar
- Startdatum
hoi,
ik ben zopas overgestapt van de touring naar de WGT.
heb een TOP rebel 10 gekocht.
kan iemand me op weg helpen welk het verschil is met verschillende sterktes van veren (front spring, side spring en center spring)
welke invloed heeft dit op het rijgedrag met hardere of zachtere veren.
Op welke instellingen moet ik het meest letten om een goede afstelling te bekomen.
Ik rijd meestal op het HRT outdoor circuit in houthalen Belgie.
alvast bedankt.
ik ben zopas overgestapt van de touring naar de WGT.
heb een TOP rebel 10 gekocht.
kan iemand me op weg helpen welk het verschil is met verschillende sterktes van veren (front spring, side spring en center spring)
welke invloed heeft dit op het rijgedrag met hardere of zachtere veren.
Op welke instellingen moet ik het meest letten om een goede afstelling te bekomen.
Ik rijd meestal op het HRT outdoor circuit in houthalen Belgie.
alvast bedankt.
Joost K.
Forum veteraan
- FRONT WIDTH
NARROW - more agressive steering
WIDER - less agressive
- FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.
SOFTER – more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.
STIFFER – less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
- CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE – decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have
better contact patch. 1 ½ to 2 ½ deg.
- CASTER
LESS – easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).
REACTIVE –reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up
properly.
- TOE
OUT – decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial “cut”
IN –increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn
- SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a ¼ turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.
SOFTER – more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center
STIFFER – less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.
- SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER – increases front traction – adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER – decreases front traction – decreases steering.
- CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction – the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.
- POSITION
FLATTER – more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER – less on-power steering
- SPRING
LIGHTER – more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the
corner
STIFFER – less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
- OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil
and a hard front tire.
- REAR POD DROOP
MORE – makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.
LESS or NONE – car smoother into corners
SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE – raises roll center. Will increase steering.
LOWER – lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.
- BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD – easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.
BACK – more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate
harder into corners by unloading rear tires.
- FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET – standard on any pancar (but oval)
INLINE – huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.
- T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL – adds anti-squat – more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)
- FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE – makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions
where car has no high-speed bite.
- REAR WIDTH
WIDER – More stable, but car will push more
NARROWER – More steering
Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope
In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering
NARROW - more agressive steering
WIDER - less agressive
- FRONT SPRINGS
No preload for .020 springs. E-clip preload for .018 springs.
SOFTER – more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.
STIFFER – less steering. Do not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry
- CAMBER
MORE NEGATIVE – decrease low speed and increase high speed steering. Outside tire will tend to flatten out at higher cornering speeds and have
better contact patch. 1 ½ to 2 ½ deg.
- CASTER
LESS – easier the car will turn. But, lose straight line stability and lose exit speed (car will not cut into a turn as well).
REACTIVE –reduces caster at turn in and increases it at exit. However, can cause more tire scrub in a turn and slow you down if not set up
properly.
- TOE
OUT – decrease straight line stability and can make car wander but it enhances turn-in, especially on initial “cut”
IN –increase straight line stability but make it more difficult to turn
- SIDE SPRINGS
If car feels edgy, a ¼ turn of preload can settle car down.
If car does not center up quick enough thru twisties, use stiffer spring.
SOFTER – more side bite for rear end but will be lazier transitioning back to center
STIFFER – less side bite. Faster transition, but can feel edgy.
- SIDE TUBES / DAMPER DISK LUBE
Typically 10,000 ofna lube or Losi med hydra fluid
THICKER – increases front traction – adds steering. Slows transition and softens steering in fast sweepers. If car is double steering on power use
thicker oil to slow reaction time but if go to far you can see inside rear tire lift in tight corners.
THINNER – decreases front traction – decreases steering.
- CENTER SHOCK
Spring/Oil combo have greater effect on net rear traction – the softer the spring/oil combo the more rear grip.
- POSITION
FLATTER – more on-power steering (to a point)
HIGHER – less on-power steering
- SPRING
LIGHTER – more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks. much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the
corner
STIFFER – less rear traction. much on-power mid-out steering, little off power steering
- OIL
Controls the front to rear grip bias.
LIGHER - balance to rear (more rear traction)
HEAVIER - balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil
and a hard front tire.
- REAR POD DROOP
MORE – makes car turn in harder. More hi-speed steering. Handles bumpy tracks better.
LESS or NONE – car smoother into corners
SIDE LINKS (ROLL-CENTER)
RAISE – raises roll center. Will increase steering.
LOWER – lowers roll center. Locks rear end more.
- BATTERY POSITION
FORWARD – easier to drive, less steering. Less wt xfer into corners.
BACK – more steering due to increase in wt xfer. Car can feel darty off-power. This coupled with longer shock (rear pod droop) makes car rotate
harder into corners by unloading rear tires.
- FRONT STEERING KNUCKLES
OFFSET – standard on any pancar (but oval)
INLINE – huge increase in steering response. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used on 10th scale roadcourse pan car.
- T-BAR SHIM
UNDER FRONT BALL – adds anti-squat – more initial steering on entry and plants rear mid corner and exit (push)
- FRONT TIRES
LESS ROUNDED EDGE – makes car edgy and car want to tip over at high speed cornering situations. Can be advantageous on loose conditions
where car has no high-speed bite.
- REAR WIDTH
WIDER – More stable, but car will push more
NARROWER – More steering
Typical tuning: front tires, center spring, and front tire-dope
In general: anything that stiffens rear end adds steering
Oscar
verslagschrijvers
In die auto zit een ontwerpfout,
daardoor gaat de auto trillen en stuiteren.
Een deel van het chassis kan veren op een manier die is niet afgedempt.
In de keuken wordt alleen methamfetamine gemaakt..maar Halewijn weet daar meer van.
Oscar
verslagschrijvers
Ja dat bedoel ik!
ntopic:Ik heb de Bolink Eliminator 10 uit elkaar gehaald. Ik wist al dat het geen hoogwaardig competitie auto was maar de auto is er slecht aan toe. Het 2,9 mm frp chassis is krom en de 2mm t-bar ook. Er missen behoorlijk wat onderdelen.
De auto is het niet waard om 100% te herstellen dus ik ga er maar een regenauto van maken.
Met caps maakt het niet uit dat de achterzijde niet in hoogte is in te stellen en het kromme frp chassis geeft in de regen minder probleem. Met dit chassis heb ik meer plaats om de electronica in bakjes te plaatsen en door de minimale onderdelen waaruit deze auto bestaat is het makkelijk na de regen weer schoon te maken. (lagers zitten bijvoorbeeld rechtstreeks in de achterpod zonder rijhoogte verstellers).
De t-bar ga ik uit 2mm epoxy zagen. Het kromme frp chassis laat ik voor wat het is. In het midden is het laagste punt. Dus als ik saddlepacks aan weerszijde van de t-bar plaats zal die waarschijnlijk weer horizontaal hangen lol!
ik heb een radio plaat (waar de t-bar aan vast zit) en de boven podplaat gekocht en daar ga ik het eerst mee proberen. Dan kan ik het iig zo goed mogelijk afbouwen en dan zie ik het wel. Ik wil er niet te veel geld aan spenderen aangezien de bolink nooit een echte competitie auto is en het nooit zal worden ook lol.
