Scratch built ribs and outboards

[Unusual RC]

You are getting more and more skilled with using 3D Cad!
The difference between a hard-drive and solid-state memory is massive concerning read and write speed. Over a factor of 10!

For Cad and other high demanding applications a must have!

You can also first print a rough (larger layer-height, more speed) mock-up to test fit, and use it to make corrections to the final version.

 

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The shell version saves 3 hrs and uses half the plastic so giving it a go. Is there something I can add to the inside if it's week, maybe fiberglass it inside?
The good thing is it has more chance of fitting better, nothing underneath to catch.

 

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Omg it's huge

 

[Unusual RC]

Although I mostly use PET-G for my boat prints, PLA also bonds well to epoxy. Glassing will be fine.

I bonded a glassfibre rod between my jet-drive's motor-mount and the inlet channel for a lot of additional strength! Some 3D printed airplanes use carbon rods for reinforcements bonded with epoxy.

I embrace this "hybrid" method, to get stronger parts than possible with printing alone.

 

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v

Success, it fits like a glove. Took ages to clean it up even though I reduced the support density. Can't wait to get the mats in now, but I need to paint first.

 

[Dim L]

Super nice..!!!!

 

[Unusual RC]

Well done!

 

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I can do the mats now

 

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The bilge pump fits nicely behind the seat on my Gala rib, if only I could get the sensor to work

 

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I gave up trying to be clever. Now I pull in flick the switch, bilge empties, switch off and off we go.

 

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Brainwave....i have had the sensor working with an led. So it could be a warning light, telling me it's time for a pit stop to flick a switch and empty the bilge

 

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Good way of keeping the bilge clean.....all this rubbish came up today whilst boating. It worked well by the way.

 

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Temporary fix till I see how reliable it is. Somehow, the led is on then when I pour some water in it goes out, switch pump on and after a while the light comes on again and shortly after the water is fully drained. I can live with that, can't think how I've managed to reverse the way it works.

 

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Took the dremel to the jet rib, I will fold up a v section to make up the hull. The plan is to make another outboard for it, but for now it can borrow one from the Sports boat.

 

[Unusual RC]

Too bad you give up the jet-drive...replace it with a jet outboard then

 

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I might do one day. That German guy seems to have cracked it. Where would I get a suitable impeller?

 

[Unusual RC]

The impeller and design of the so called bowl are key here. The bowl is collecting the water from the centrifugal impeller and divert the water towards the exit nozzle.

Such a impeller could be 3D printed, or if found to weak let it be printed into metal!

No need for bevel-gears and a trust-bearing!

 

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The esc is a 120amp so I have ordered a 150amp to cope with my 6s powerful outboard.
I used a mock up outboard from old parts to line up the mounting bracket. I was able to reuse the bracket for the steering servo, it keeps it high up out of the bilge, and it is IP67 waterproof.

 

[Dim L]

Nice progress!!!

 

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No idea what happened this time, but I have binned my older charger. I will get a new one this week same as the other I have , Overlander touch screen. So another £80 of batteries up in smoke. Soon got the charging box cleaned up and painted again, thank God I use it. I wonder if there is a temperature probe I could use, but I guess by then it's too late.