P1 Puma RIB racing-scratch building

Update #30: The outboard is finished :) :) :)!!!!!

The beginning :
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The end:
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I love the result!
Below I give you a number of photos with details and two videos.
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Wow, I make a deep bow for this!
Amazing achievement.
Much better than any commercial available rc outboard.

Maiden is in sight!

Thank you Michael for you nice words... Now the question is its performance and durability...
The maiden is indeed in sight but first I have to finish the rib...
 
Great result indeed! Could you test it behind the Cozy F1? Maybe with a bigger bracket behind the transom.

Just 1 tip: the water should enter the cooling jacket at the bottom and exit at the top. That way, it will fill completely with water.
I made the same mistake with my outboard at first. In my T800 topic it is installed wrong as well [emoji6]
 
Great result indeed! Could you test it behind the Cozy F1? Maybe with a bigger bracket behind the transom.

Just 1 tip: the water should enter the cooling jacket at the bottom and exit at the top. That way, it will fill completely with water.
I made the same mistake with my outboard at first. In my T800 topic it is installed wrong as well [emoji6]

Thank you Jan:)!
Yes I ll test it, it will be an interesting experiment. This is the benefit of the outboards, you can use them in various models.

Oh thank you for the tip, you are right I wouldn't have thought about it. :thumbsup:
 
Could you test it behind the Cozy F1? Maybe

Jan I was thinking that it would be nice idea to use the diy outboard on a scaled (probably 90%) version of your T800 cosy? What do you think, will it work?
It is a great boat and your drawings are very tempting ;)
!
 
Hi Dim, I'm sure that will work. 90% scaled is approx 74cm hull length.
It might be on the large side for the 2960 motor. Maybe 85% scaled down is better (70cm hull length) a or in the future you could go to a 36 size motor.

Your RIB is about 75cm right? It will be a nice test case for the power to weight ratio with the 2960 motor.
 
Thanks Jan:thumbsup:!
Yes, the hull is approximately 76 cm without the tubes... So i am at the upper tail of the distribution :confused:...
Also notice that it is a deep v, much slower hull than the f1.
So I guess you are right, it will be a nice test for the 2960 motor.
My goal is to have the same outboard for two hulls: the rib for the sea and the f1 for the lake for top speed;).
The 36 motor is always an option with a light modofication....
 
Laatst bewerkt:
Wow just wow ,Dim
This is next level ,I love the boat and outboard.
So much effort ,and that is visable .
Looks like a factory build ,but then much better[emoji1305][emoji1303]
 
Laatst bewerkt:
Thanks Jan.... To he honest I haven't decided yet... but I saw that white as the basic background color gives very good painting results and more vivid colors.
 
Update #31: Waterproof cover + laminating the upper deck.

I realized that it was difficult to waterproof properly the cowl with tape plus I didn t like the looks of it . Thus, I decided to make an extra cover to waterproof the inner of the hull.
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I don't like the extra grammars of the cover but I don't want water in my hull o_O.

Finally, I laminated the upper deck with 50gr fiber... Next it's sanding... :confused:
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With the remaining of the epoxy resign I also laminated the cover...
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I have seen many solutions in the past decades to make a fully waterproof hatch for fast RC boats.
Till this day taping the seams shut is still the best concerning overal weight and complexity.

I have had my boats go over 2,0 meters submerged (even my water-jet driven Recoil 26 is a good submarine when making a steering mistake).
No issues with tape!
Making an inner hatch is certainly the the best option concerning the looks.
Finding the right color tape is not always possible for example.
 
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